SerumScoop: Tips, tricks and news
CRESSATINE is a primary component of our RevivScalp Rejuvenating Scalp Serum Masque. CRESSATINE is a novel aqueous extract of watercress (Nasturtium officinale) and Indian cress (Tropaeolum majus) leaves and shoots, stabilized with plant glycerin, and is ECOCERT qualified.
Excerpts from its specification documentation, prepared by its manufacturer, France-based Solabia:
Titrated with sulfur, CRESSATINE is designed to facilitate hair growth and strengthen hairs from the root:
- by providing the elements (sulfur and other minerals) needed to produce keratin for solid, well-structured hair.
- by helping initiate hair regrowth via the Wnt pathway.
- by stimulating keratinocyte differentiation via the KGFs (keratinocyte growth factors) released when the Wnt/β-catenin pathway is activated.
- by prolonging the growth phase using the Wnt pathway and KGFs.
ACTIVATION OF WNT/ ß-CATENIN SIGNALING PATHWAY
CRESSATINE was shown to boost the activation of WNT / ß-CATENIN signaling pathway by 37% vs. control:
STIMULATION OF KGF PRODUCTION
CRESSATINE® significantly stimulates KGF production, by 107% vs. control, and in a dose-dependent manner, which in turn stimulates the keratinocytes, causes a well- structured hair to be produced, and lengthens the anagen phase:
RevivHair Max Hair Stimulating Serum is a cosmetic. As a cosmetics company, we are legally bound by U.S. FDA rules and regulations. And the FDA's definition of a cosmetic: a product that is "for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance" and does not "affect the structure or any function of the body" which would make the product a "drug."
When developing products we often have to walk a fine line when it comes to formulating for efficacy and marketing claims. We cannot say that, for instance, a product "will grow hair." We have to be very specific about terminology. In fact, in general we don't use any specific claims for a particular product. Any claim verbiage we use is strictly related to the individual raw ingredients we utilize, and we use only major manufacturer data -- who are also under U.S. FDA regulations about what they can claim and what they cannot. Our manufacturer claim data is legitimate, bonafide, and accurate (and googleable).
So while we of course cannot say that RevivHair will "grow hair," we can say it may very well help provide the optimal environment for strong, healthy, thick looking hair. That may sound like marketing gobbledygook, but it's the law.
But what about "cosmeceuticals?" Aren't they a "drug?" From our colleagues at The Chemist Corner:
One other classification of products is cosmeceuticals. The oft-controversial but significant contributor to our field, dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman, coined the term cosmeceutical almost 30 years ago. He defined cosmeceuticals as topically applied products that do have a physiological effect on the skin. The industry was quick to respond because the potential regulation of cosmetics as drugs could cripple innovation due to time and cost. Kligman, however, intended to draw attention to the potential biological effects of all cosmetics that did not just merely camouflage or add color. In fact he said it was “scientifically silly to pretend that cosmetics did not do anything” and that cosmetics might actually be doing a lot of good.