SerumScoop: Tips, tricks and news
Canities is the fancy word for premature greying of the hair, and most people have some amount of greying, from very sparse, to fairly widespread.
The color, density, and styling of hair have a colossal bearing on one’s self-esteem, especially in today’s times where a person’s first impression may turn out to his or her last impression. However, increased longevity of human life means that we spend an increasing proportion of our lives sporting signs of aging on our scalp. The most dramatic age-related change in hair is the onset of hair graying or canities, which is the gradual age-dependent dilution of hair color to gray or white, also known assenile canities (canities (L.), canus, hoary, gray). The graying of hair occurs due to an admixture of normally pigmented, hypomelanotic, and amelanotic melanosomes. White hair is the endpoint of graying. The age of onset of senile canities appears to be genetically controlled and inheritable. The average age for Caucasians is mid-30s; for Asians, late-30s; and for Africans, mid-40s. A good rule of thumb is that by 50 years of age, 50% of people have 50% gray hair. 
The darker the hair color, the more noticeable early graying will be. Particular hair colors are associated with some ethnic groups. The Fischer–Saller scale, named after Eugen Fischer and Karl Saller, is used to determine the shades of hair color [Table 2].  Majority of the human population (80–90%) fall into the U to Y category (dark brown/black hair) of this scale.
WHAT HAPPENS DURING PHYSIOLOGICAL AGING (CANITIES)?
The type of hair fiber keeps on changing with age. Neonates... have unpigmented lanugo hair while adults have short (mostly pigmented) vellus hair or fine pigmented intermediate hair and long terminal hair shafts. Similarly, surface morphology also shows variation with age, particularly with the reduction in the cuticular scale size. The synthetic capacity of hair bulb melanocytes is maximum during youth. An average scalp hair follicle usually receives 7 ± 15 melanocyte replacements from an outer root sheath reservoir to the hair bulb, which occurs in the first 45 years preceding the onset of gray hair. Different theories have been suggested for the age-related gradual loss of pigmentation. This includes exhaustion of enzymes involved in melanogenesis, impaired deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) synthesis, loss of telomerase, loss of antioxidant mechanisms, and anti-apoptotic signals. Table 3 shows various changes that take place in a white hair bulb during canities. The net result is that fewer melanosomes are incorporated into cortical keratinocytes of the hair shaft. Cessation of pigment production by melanocytes in the hair matrix area surrounding the dermal papilla is a slow process resulting in slow outgrowth of graying hair at the pace of normal hair growth. All hair bulbs do not decrease pigment incorporation in the growing hair at the same time giving “salt and pepper pattern”to the scalp hair.
It has been observed that hair graying pattern depends on gender, age of onset, and smoking habits, with smokers having higher chances of having canities. Temporal area is involved in males first while in females, it is the frontal area. Age of onset also affects the area of involvement; parietal and occipital areas are involved in patients of young age while frontal area is involved in late onset group.
WHY DOES PREMATURE CANITIES OCCUR?
Premature canities is a common cause of referral to dermatologists. It occurs most commonly without any underlying pathology, but is said to be inherited in an autosomal dominant manner. It is different from poliosis which is circumscribed hypomelanosis of hair. The diseases associated with poliosis are given in Table 4. The pathogenesis of premature canities has not yet been clearly elucidated. A hypothesis that pH and cysteine level of melanosomes play critical roles in determining the course of mixed melanosomes leading to dark, light, or red hair phenotype has been proposed because of the diversity of human hair pigmentation. The role of pH in controlling mixed melanogenesis has attracted much attention as it is seen that tyrosinase activity is progressively suspended by lowering the pH, with a shift to more pheomelanin phenotype.[8-11] Concentration of cysteine in melanosomesis another control point in mixed melanogenesis. Chemical hair straightening is done by alkaline disruption of the disulphide bonds in the cortex of the hair shaft. It causes considerable damage to the hair because of the pH (9–12) of the chemicals leaving the hair dry and fragile. In a questionnaire-based study, Shetty et al. reported that 22% of the cases experienced graying of hair also.[8,12] There is definitely a role of trace metal ions in hair pigmentation. Copper ions are required by tyrosinase at its active center; thus, it is likely that copper ions in melanocytes are necessary to maintain normal color. Fatemi Naieni et al. compared the mean copper concentration in patients with PHG and controls and found lower mean serum copper concentration in the cases.
Data suggest that oxidative stress can also play a major role in the premature aging of skin and hair. This theory has been widely accepted these days. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) or free radicals, generated by a variety of internal and environmental factors may result in direct damage to various cellular structural membranes, lipids, proteins, and DNA. To combat these free radicals, our body has endogenous defense mechanisms such as antioxidative enzymes which include superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase as well as non-enzymatic antioxidative molecules like vitamin E, vitamin C, glutathione, and ubiquinone. The production of these endogenous defense mechanisms decreases while that of free radical increases, resulting in aging.
APPROACH TO MANAGEMENT OF PREMATURE CANITIES
...Recent experimental work indicates that cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride, a quaternized UV absorber, delivered from a shampoo system, is suitable for photo protection of hair, while simultaneously providing an additional conditional benefit on hair, Solid lipid nanoparticles have been developed as novel carriers of UV blockers for use on skin and hair, offering photoprotection on their own too by reacting and scattering ultraviolet radiation (UVR).[ 24]
Recent advances in the management of aging hair and scalp are anti-aging compounds. Shampoos are largely ineffective as anti-aging agents due to water dilution and short contact time, and antioxidants such as vitamin C and E in these preparations protect fatty substances in the shampoo from oxidation, and not the hair.
— Portions excerpted from Sehrawat M, Sinha S, Meena N, Sharma PK. Biology of hair pigmentation and its role in premature canities. Pigment Int 2017;4:7-12.
HERE'S A NEW SOLUTION TO PREMATURE CANITIES
New RevivHair REV with Grey Hair Reverse and Hair Stimulation is a novel leave-in serum that targets greying hair three different ways, all without the use of colorants and dyes.
It's one of the first products to combine award-winning new ingredients Greyverse and Darnkenyl to address both the appearance of grey and thinning hair:
What’s all this about blue light?
Blue light is a part of the spectrum of visible light, and is a high-energy, shorter-wavelength light, not to be confused with UVA or UVB rays.
The main source of the blue light we're exposed to is the sun, according to the American Academy of Ophthalmology. However, we also get a significant dose from our screens — phones, tablets, computers - and indoor lighting.
Blue light isn't all bad: it plays a role in maintaining good health, as it regulates our body's circadian rhythm — our natural sleep-wake cycle, and elevates mood and helps memory and cognitive function.
But is blue light damaging your skin?
Indeed there is mounting evidence that blue light does contribute to photo-aging, including discoloration, inflammation, wrinkles, and skin laxity. Studies also suggest that exposure to blue light might stimulate the production of free radicals in skin, which can accelerate the appearance of aging.
What to do about it?
New remarkable Revivinol Serum includes the compound Lumicease Blue, which helps prepare the skin through an adaptive response to light and targets the defense against blue light, UV, and infra-red radiations from phones, tablets and computers, as well as pollutants in the air and other damaging environmental aggressors.
A decrease in appearance of brown spots by 11.7% as well as in the amount of UV spots by 14.1% was observed after 56 days of treatment using Lumicease. Wrinkle volume and average roughness also diminished 21.5% and 13.2% respectively.
Get protected from blue light with Revivinol Serum. Its product page is here.
Stress is a part of life, and stress can affect the health and appearance of skin.
When the body is under stress, it releases cortisol, a regulatory substance transported in tissue fluids to stimulate specific cells or tissues into action.
This effect, over time, can negatively affect the skin in a number of ways.
While managing stress is of utmost important, it’s good to know there is topical help:
HA7X Multi-Molecular Hydrator Serum with Neurophroline™
Neurophroline is the first cosmetic active ingredient shown to address the visible effects of cortisol. It is derived from the wild indigo plant, Tephrosia purpurea, a native Indian plant used in Ayurvedic medicine for its skin benefits. Neurophroline also helps promote the release of endorphins which are relaxing neuropeptides in skin.
Neurophroline is the primary “hero” ingredient in HA7X Serum, which is the first U.S. product to contain this gold-award winning active.
Givaudan Active Beauty, the inventor of Neurophroline, has this to say about this remarkable ingredient:
Neurophroline™: think yourself younger
The revolutionary stress-busting active Neurophroline™, developed by Givaudan can not only combat the signs of environmental aggressors such as pollution and climate, but can also treat the real culprit of ageing – stress. Stress takes its toll on our skin, accelerating ‘wear and tear’ such as circles under the eyes, a fatigued appearance or fine lines. This breakthrough development from Givaudan triggers different actions in our physiological makeup to combat our stress hormones.
Romain, Givaudan’s R&D Director explains how it works: “Being stressed is actually bad for your skin; there are many products for anti-ageing, but none that target stress, despite the fact that this is a key ageing culprit.
“Our new product, Neurophroline™, stimulating the ‘feel good’ beta-endorphins and combating the main stress-hormone, cortisol.”
He continues: “We can tell whether the product is working by checking that the genes promoting the anti-oxidation are being stimulated. Anti-oxidation is a process that counteracts the negative effect of stress; this is scientifically important because of the link between feeling stressed and ageing skin. This powerful active ingredient generates results in two weeks, especially on high stress areas where the skin is thinnest, e.g. around the eyes."
Romain also gives insights into how feeling less stressed can make us look younger, and why: “Our skin and our brains share the same embryonic origin, meaning that how we feel inside affects how we look outside. If we are stressed, we will look tired, and age faster. If the brain thinks we’re happy and balanced, the skin will react positively… essentially we can think ourselves young again!”
Reverse the visible effects of stress on your skin. Get HA7X here today.
You can also get the remarkable benefits of Neurophroline for your LIPS with RevivLip Lip Renewal Serum System here!
Read more here:
Hair Strengthening Protein
Healthy hair is resistant to breakage because it demonstrates flexibility within its cortex as well as maintaining cuticle integrity. Through daily grooming and styling, hair is subjected to tensile forces, bending stresses and cuticle abrasion that ultimately cause a weakening of the hair fiber itself in addition to damaging the cuticle layer.
Increasing the strength of the hair is a two-fold strategy that must address both its inner flexibility along with the integrity of its surface layer. With an intermediate-range molecular weight of 1800, Keravis™ (INCI: Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol) addresses both of these issues by simultaneously penetrating the hair shaft to optimize moisture content and plasticity of the hair, while also forming a cross-linking film that coats the hair to lubricate, protect and reinforce the cuticle. Hair treated with the Keravis strengthening active shows a proven increase in hair strength - triple the strength of damaged hair compared to a control conditioner. Treated hair can demonstrate the increased resilience, flexibility and reduced breakage seen in healthy hair.
RevivHair Stimulating Conditioner utilizes this patented protein to address the three fundamental parameters of hair strength: tensile properties, bending modulus and cuticle abrasion.
See more on its product page here.
— Portions excerpted from Keravis datasheet and Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine